Settings won't stay put.

[jlands]

Anyone know how to or have any ideas on keeping spring and stroke adjustment screws from moving. i have came up with 2 ideas. 1st is obviously loctite but i see some problems with that. i don't want it "permanent", just not move from where i set it. plus, loctite tight makes a nasty mess when you break the bond and i don't want all those crumbs floating in there. my second thought , was to use a 1/4” Allen Wrench and a 1/8” Allen Wrench to build a screw stop of sorts. i was thinking i could weld the 1/8” Allen to the 1/4” Allen (properly measured of course) but would have to either machine a new end cap or just leave the (L) in the 1/4” Allen and let it rest the stock(ugly i know).

anyway, any thoughts.


jared

[Supercharged86]

Hey Jared, settings change on their own, huh? I haven't seen or heard of this before. How many shots does it take? I definitely agree with you about the loctite though. Steve

[spysir]

Right right, on MANY marauders the adjustmenst do NOT stay put. And loc-tite is scary eh? "Vibra-tite" (spelling may be wrong?) would be the only product to use in this application.
How ever, (I no longer have one in the house to strip down or I would) could it be part #42 (or 1763-066) is the lockdown screw for the striker adjustment ?(it is) Daystate/Bam/others use this method. This screw prevents the setting from moving and is to be set friction tight ONLY (do not crank it down TIGHT as that would damage the threads on the striker adjuster/pip, rather snug, remove it and put a piece of rubber or such under it if you need to.
I believe there is a similar screw for the spring adjustment also. I saw one marauder that would loose 200fps (spring tention adjustment) if you just smacked the butt hard a few times.
Please post after you take a look at said screw. I believe you can access it by just removing the barrel & reciever.

John

[pb177]

Jared,
I’ve had that problem before. While the hammer stroke was OK, the hammer tension screw bothered me. I also considered using Teflon tape or dental floss wrapped around a thread or two. Like you, I figured Locktite crumbs might find it’s way into the gun, and it really was not a fix for the problem.
The problem, at least on my Marauder, was the contact between the hammer spring and the adjuster screw. There was a small burr that was causing it to hang up. I sanded and polished the two surfaces until they spun smooth and free, then moly lubed them and reassembled.
I haven’t had a problem since, and turning the adjuster screw is very smooth now.
That may be the cause of your problem too.
If you are comfortable enough to open up your rifle, I suggest you give that a try before you apply anything to your threads, as it may not be necessary.
Best of luck,
Paul

[tjbryner]

Don't use Loctite...
I recommend using fingernail polish, Works good easy to clean up and is not Permanent. It's all use, Plus it's easy to see I use red and yellow.

!st put a drop on the threads, Run it in were you want it, Next I use a small dot to mark the top and what ever it is screwed into. Thus you have a quick visual reference as to whether it has moved or not.

[hawkeye]

Right right, on MANY marauders the adjustmenst do NOT stay put. And loc-tite is scary eh? "Vibra-tite" (spelling may be wrong?) would be the only product to use in this application.
How ever, (I no longer have one in the house to strip down or I would) could it be part #42 (or 1763-066) is the lockdown screw for the striker adjustment ?(it is) Daystate/Bam/others use this method. This screw prevents the setting from moving and is to be set friction tight ONLY (do not crank it down TIGHT as that would damage the threads on the striker adjuster/pip, rather snug, remove it and put a piece of rubber or such under it if you need to.
I believe there is a similar screw for the spring adjustment also. I saw one marauder that would loose 200fps (spring tention adjustment) if you just smacked the butt hard a few times.
Please post after you take a look at said screw. I believe you can access it by just removing the barrel & reciever.

John

I agree with John. I have heard of settings changing on the Mrod and the fix was adjusting the set screw, part #42 1763-066 and it's associated binding plug part #43 1763-062. Remember just snug it up and don't over tighten.

Tom

[jlands]

thx for the post every one. a lot of good ideas. i have not took it apart yet (and dread doing it) but i assume that it uses course threads and not fine. i bet that one production decision is the main problem.

thx again every one.
jared

[jlands]

Hey Jared, settings change on their own, huh? I haven't seen or heard of this before. How many shots does it take? I definitely agree with you about the loctite though. Steve

forgot to answer you. per 90-120 shots, the stroke turns out about 1/3 turn and the spring turns out about 3/4 turn. i pretty much stay on the chrony and tuning, so i don't if long term shooting would change it more. i also have a lot of tension on hammer and don't know if it would move with a more conservative preload. as for stroke, even when i had it 5-6 turns in, it would still move about the same. it could be the two screws are turning one another a little bit by friction, but i don't know how they are put together so this is just a thought.

jared

[avv604]

Anyone know how to or have any ideas on keeping spring and stroke adjustment screws from moving. i have came up with 2 ideas. 1st is obviously loctite but i see some problems with that. i don't want it "permanent", just not move from where i set it. plus, loctite tight makes a nasty mess when you break the bond and i don't want all those crumbs floating in there. my second thought , was to use a 1/4” Allen Wrench and a 1/8” Allen Wrench to build a screw stop of sorts. i was thinking i could weld the 1/8” Allen to the 1/4” Allen (properly measured of course) but would have to either machine a new end cap or just leave the (L) in the 1/4” Allen and let it rest the stock(ugly i know).

anyway, any thoughts.


jared

Greetings Jared,

Yes, the M-rods will change settings. The main issue with the hammer spring adjustment. Some are inputting screws into the back so it will "hold" the settings. What I did was take some penetrating lock-tite (lightest strength I could find) and put one drop in the rear hole. I aimed the drop at the screw at an angle... I did not want to mess with the hammer stroke adjustment.
After lettings it dry three days, it is holding great! I later decided to change the settings so the 18g JSB would hit 920 for 20 shots. The adjustment was tight (not extremely tight but enough to hold it from moving during the vibration of each shot) but I was able to move it to where I wanted.

[avv604]

thx for the post every one. a lot of good ideas. i have not took it apart yet (and dread doing it) but i assume that it uses course threads and not fine. i bet that one production decision is the main problem.

thx again every one.
jared

If you will read over my blog, you will see pictures of when I did the same thing you are about to do.
I would not do it again. It is a pain getting everything back (settings for FPS) to the way they were.