by Teryx on Wed Aug 25, 2010 10:36 pm
Sorry for this slow reply, I don't visit too often anymore. Yes, I did get the valve working very well, and I did it by modifying the existing valve and adding a spacer ring between the valve and the regulator. In my gun though there is no gauge hole because I built a new airtube too. My guns are carbines, with only 14" barrels and 18" airtubes, but they get 30 shots when set at 815 FPS. I can boost the speed to 850 and still get 20 shots. 850 is about max with the short barrel. I'm guessing that a full length barrel and airtube would get around 45-50 shots at maybe 950 FPS, and probably 40 good shots at 1000.
The modifications were as follows:
I removed the tapered sleeve in the valve and used a tapered pin reamer to enlarge the inside diameter slightly, maybe .030 total. I backbored the spring retainer from the muzzle end to reduce the length of the narrow channel going into the valve and radiused the transition. I bored out the port to .160 and polished it. The transfer tube is aluminum jacketed polyurethane, .160. The spacer between the valve and the regulator is 3/4 inch. The regulator is set at 130 for the 815 tune, and 150 for 850 tune. I prefer the 130 setting.
The modifications to the valve were all designed to increase flow rate through the valve, NOT to increase volume. Enlarging the tapered sleeve in the valve presented a greater flow area to the valve seat, while still offering support to the spring. I was able to run minimum hammer spring settings and slightly shortening the stroke because the setup moved air so efficiently. The volume was added mainly by the spacer. Erring to the high side on volume has no ill effect, but starving the valve does. Following this approach results in a very sweet running gun that is easy to tune using the existing parts. Shot consistency varies only about 8fps total spread over 30 shots.
I was hoping to build these for people but that had to be scrapped.
T