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I have read of several possible "solutions" besides the aluminum billet parts: foam tape, o-rings (7/8 X 3/4 X 1/16), plastic piece that covers barrel from M-rod shipping, ABS plastic pipe custom cut to fit, in addition to the billet aluminum parts made by Garden Sniper Pete and/or Neil Clague.

It would be intersting to hear from those who have used each technique how well that solution worked to prevent the Marauder POI shift.

Ray

I used the o rings. they definitely reduced the shift but didn't completely get rid of it.

I have one of garden snipers barrel band spacers and going to be trying it later this afternoon all of my remake parts for my router came in today with a new shrouded new breach bolt and a new air tube so now my cocking problem is gone I am tuned nicely and ready to see how this barrel band apparatus works.. I know when my gun was working before it did not work well for me but I did not experiment enough with different shroud positions etc cetera

The barrel band fix worked backwards for me.. I could shoot dime sized groups out to 40+ yards and thought I might be able to make it better. . Boy was I wrong... I used electrical tape as the spacer.. nice snug fit but not tight as to have to use excessive force getting the shroud back on.. I snugged the shroud as I usually do after removing it... my groups at 40y opened up to about a quarter size.. I shot about 200 rounds and felt as though I was just wasting pellets and air trying to "make it work" so I removed the tape and now I can't get the dime grouping I had before.. I Didn't make any other changes other than the tape.. I loosened the shroud a quarter turn then a half.. nothing more than that with fear of having the baffles loose and clipping pellets and damaging the baffles.. now I'm chasing groups I once had.. sad sad day

OK, here are two new ones that have worked for me after trying many of the other tricks with limited or temporary success:
1- On my 22 Marauder, I bought this, and slid it over my barrel. It worked so-so. I loctited it on my barrel an brought my groups way tighter.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carbon-Fiber-Tu ... v4exp=true

2- Center the barrel in the shroud! If you take off the oring on the shoud spacer, put the shroud back on and look down inside the shoud. You will probably see that the barrel is NOT centered in the shroud. This means that there is always side loading on the barrel. Thats why whenever you do ANYTHING with the shroud, you get a shift. So, this is what I did:
Remove the shroud.
Loosen the allen that holds the rear shroud spacer in place and push the spacer back square against the breech. Tighten the allen screw.This step is optional I think.
Install the shroud tight against the breach. Don't forget to put the oring back on the front barrel spacer if you removed it earlier.
Put the baffels, springs if you have a new version, and shroud cap.
Now, lossen the two allen screws that hold the barrel in place. The barrel should align itself inside the shroud. You might want to jiggle the shroud a little bit to help it settle.
Tighten the allen screws.
Put your scope back on.

My 22 now stacks polymags on top of each other at 25 yds and hasn't changed for a month.
My 25 now shoots sub dime sized groups with barracudas at 25 yds and hasn't changed in two weeks.

Just tossing my experiences into mix. I hope other have the same success with these.

Sundance Kid

Hi Guy's I have come to think that it's the pellets and not so much the barrels. I did the orings 2 spaced out 3 times down the barrel and I beleave it helped.I can get (1 raged hole)at 30 yds my max shooting distance with JSB 18's and the 25's but still have the slight flyers. I also have flyers that are 1inch out. We all know that every pellet is not the same so how can we expect the same impact from different pellets. just my food for thought.I am new to air guns so I'm only gesing but think about a musket ball from a smouth bore rifle ,now how much riffling effects the pellet when shot. I know when I pushed a pellet down my 22 barrel I got no marks on it .We can only expect to get close to 1 hole with every shot. again just my thinking maybe couldbe wrong. thanks for hearing my rant

K45

Kimber45cal wrote:Hi Guy's I have come to think that it's the pellets and not so much the barrels. I did the orings 2 spaced out 3 times down the barrel and I beleave it helped.I can get (1 raged hole)at 30 yds my max shooting distance with JSB 18's and the 25's but still have the slight flyers. I also have flyers that are 1inch out. We all know that every pellet is not the same so how can we expect the same impact from different pellets. just my food for thought.I am new to air guns so I'm only gesing but think about a musket ball from a smouth bore rifle ,now how much riffling effects the pellet when shot. I know when I pushed a pellet down my 22 barrel I got no marks on it .We can only expect to get close to 1 hole with every shot. again just my thinking maybe couldbe wrong. thanks for hearing my rant

K45

you said putting the o rings in helped. also others have said that the the aluminum barrel band spacer fixed the problem in their rifles. we all buy the same pellets and we get different results so I'd say pellets are not the cause... when you are hitting bullseyes every shot then 10 minutes later the gun is hitting a half inch high, and a quarter inch to the right every shot. I'd say it's safe to say we can rule out the pellets being the cause.

I installed plastic in my barrel band, And did all the rest make sure my shroud is not tight on the back side,,,
I only get one shot at the sparrow, With the plastic barrel band I get the sparrow 75 % of the time, My POI will return after a few shots but the sparrows are long gone,,, I have learned you have to be very careful how you store and lean the gun,, Nothing not even a feather touching the barrel... I have a 5 inch extension on the barrel with two extra baffles..
Parts on back order from Garden sniper,,,
I just ordered an air extension , More for protection to the barrel than the extra few shoots,,,
Mike

has anyone tried locktite on the threads of the shroud cap, and the shroud mount?

if I tighten the shroud cap too tight I think it compresses the baffles, and creates some tension that negatively impacts poi consistency. too loose and I think it slowly loosens up. locktite will maybe allow for a sweet spot in tightness.

I'm sure most of you notice when you turn that cap in either direction you instantly see a poi shift.

had my o-ring fix only running for a couple of days, not really enough time for me to tell. Seems to work well so far. Will know more as time goes along.


Pat