Share your results with various POI shift solutions

[dmccrackin]

I am digging this solution. I assume the shroud mount is a removable collar that slides over the barrel? Can I drill and tap the additional set screws at home, or is it a machine shop job? I have a drill press and tap/die set. Any tricks to doing this?

[potshot308]

I have a .22 synrod I've been messing with the last couple of months. It seemed to shoot good at first with JSB 18.1, then random flyers and general inconsistencies and attendant frustrations. Messed with the shroud, tight, loose, rigid mount etc. Cleaned the barrel, polished the barrel, CF sleeved the barrel. It would show signs of improvement, then back to it's random ways. I ordered some seals from crosman and decided to roll the dice on a replacement .22 barrel. My original barrel is straight, good crown , and a tight choke. The replacement looks much the same, but has NO choke that I can feel. After a good clean and JB polish, I installed it and went back to the floating shroud, 1/4 turn from touching the receiver. So far, It is grouping excellent, one ragged 10 shot 1/4 " hole at 25 yards, and 1/2 to 3/4" at 50 with a slight breeze. You never know, but I hope it will stay this way.

[dmccrackin]

Ok. I just did my oldpro mod. Fairly easy. Unscrew the shroud and barrel band. Twist off the muzzle break. I slotted an allen wrench through the hole and twist an pull. Remove the shroud collar. Found the set screws to be 8/32 course. Eyeballed a triangle set screw position and drilled two more 9/64 holes. Tapped with an 8/32 tap. The shortest set screws at HD were slighty too long, so i tapped a piece of scrap metal and ground the heads down until they all fit inside the shroud. Reinstalled with blue loctite making sure i tightened evenly in the orininal location. Removed my barrel band oring that i put in earlier. Basically back to free floating. I did snug the shroud back to the breech in its original location. Might move that all forward as oldpro suggested if i dont see results. Will post once i have had time to test.

[oldpro]

If the shroud mount is touching the breach the mod will do little or nothing

[oldpro]

The shroud mount and action are not milled flat together and if the barrel has droop in it then putting the shroud mount against breach will force the barrel one way or another.

[dmccrackin]

Heard. I thought that might be the case, and assumed I would end up moving the shroud mount away from the breech. Haven't had time to test yet, as it is raining a lot here. I really liked your idea of moving the mount up, and throwing an extra baffle or two in the front. I did notice that my shroud mount doesn't actually touch the breech. There is a small urethane o-ring there that maintains a very small separation. If you hold the gun up to the light, you can see light through the gap between the shroud mount and the breech, although if you snug the shroud down on the mount, then the shroud, itself, does make contact, which is probably detrimental. I will see about ordering an extra baffle or two from crosman. Where did you get your metal air stripper? I did notice that my barrel was crowned pretty nicely, but the air stripper (plastic) had a shitty crown. That can't be good.

[Family Man 811]

FWIW I went to the latest Ebay aluminum stripper followed bye 3 stock baffles then 1 baffle I shaved 2mm off from...next it is capped off by the factory stripper which I cut short right where the holes stop because it gave me with another Oring for a tight seal to hold it all in place. Lastly and I feel most importantly I added two more set screws to the shroud mount giving it 3 points of contact to eliminate any offset caused by the one top set screw method. I have attached to the shroud a Mike Kobel Citrus Air Guns LDC which though was lacking quality ascetically works well. My groups have tightened up nicely at high power and I have not had ANY shift this week at all so fingers crossed the problems are over! Here is a video where you can hear the report and its even indoors so to me its all the more impressive. grouping Kings at a 943fps in a .35 inch 37 yd 5 shot group, and the Cudas avg @ 891 fps into a .47 inch group at the same 37 yd optimum zero range!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEjRwoaujfc

[RayK]

Thanks to RayK for asking the question and Oldpro for his mod.

And thanks to Brian for trying out all these ideas and measuring which made improvement.

OldPro - your rear shroud mount mod is brilliant. I'm going to drill my rear shroud spacers when I get a chance.

Ray

[SHOOTINIT]

likely the biggest problem is the shroud mount next to the breach it has a set screw on one side this creates a offset that why I added set screws on opposing sides and this is why people leave their shrouds turned 1/2 turn loose it allows play in the shroud to overcome the problem now finally I opened up the oring grouve in barrel band and installed 1 large oring that isn't tight against shroud but keeps shroud strait after all that I'm dead on all the time except for some fliers. Crosman should have made the shroud mount part of the breach and if someone would make one I'll be the first to buy it. JMHO

loctite works great.

[RayK]

loctite works great.

Do you mean you loctite the rear shroud mount to the barrel? Do you still use set screws?

I seem to remember you used some glue-like stuff to give a solid connection between the barrel and the breech too. What was that stuff and how is that working?

Ray