WANNA MAKE IT EVEN QUIETER ?????

[Supercharged86]

I was thinking about taking this mod a step further (or perhaps just a different approach). Instead of stuffing the four baffles individually, how about making just one big baffle or perhaps no baffle housing at all. Perhaps just a center core with equal amounts of foam wrapped concentrically (in order to keep the center core true and square with the barrel). There would be perhaps some additional foam gained from the current setup, I wonder if this would reduce the db any further Steve

[Vakeiros]

I was thinking about taking this mod a step further (or perhaps just a different approach). Instead of stuffing the four baffles individually, how about making just one big baffle or perhaps no baffle housing at all. Perhaps just a center core with equal amounts of foam wrapped concentrically (in order to keep the center core true and square with the barrel). There would be perhaps some additional foam gained from the current setup, I wonder if this would reduce the db any further Steve

hi,

i don't think so Steve, because the way of working of a silencer is prevent the air from blowing out all at same time so he has to "divide" the air, to do that we use the baffles, each baffle "take" a porsion of air so after pass throught all baffles there's much less air on the blow. Using that "magic something" (can't remember how do you call them ) i presume that stuff is very soft (personaly i use glass fiber, like the stuff inside of winter coats, to do my silencers) it helps absorving each divided porsion of air. So if you just use a big cilindrical piece it won't help at all! i realy think the best way to go is stuff each baffle.
what could realy help is drilling the shrould (on baffles zone) and baffles (drills should be aligned on shroud and baffles) with very small holes so to help the air beig released, drills should be placed all around the shrould/baffles, let's say, i don't know how long baffles are, but from pictures i've seen 2 rounds of holes for each baffle (divide each baffle lenght by 3), and each round with 4 to 8 holes each, let's say each hole with 2mm diameter. this way, the baffles divide the air blow, each baffle is stuffed with soft material that absorve the high pressure air and the small holes releases that air.

from my experience i think this could realy help... how much costs a new srhoud? i think i'll give it a try when my marauder arrives...

regards, i hope i made myself clear, if not i'll be glad to answer all questions

[RayK]

Hi all.

Thanks RBolton6 for sharing this cool modification!

I bet you see more improvement on 25 caliber or on the smaller calibers that have been maxed out on velocity settings.

I'm going to try it on my 25 as soon as it is broken in.

Do you have any estimate for how many of the Mr Clean erasers you need to do one barrel? My wife has one new pad, but it doesn't look like enough to do all the baffels.

Also, my wife, who actually uses these Magic Erasers for cleaning, says they have recently come out with a heavy duty version of this pad. I wonder if it would be better.

Thanks again!

Ray

[Supercharged86]

Hi Ray, One pad will be more than enough, so when she's not looking, steal it sorry don't know much about the new HD version. steve

[RayK]

Hi Ray, One pad will be more than enough, so when she's not looking, steal it ... steve

I already acquired one from her! Thanks Steve!

The baffles seem like they would allow at most 1/4" of foam. Do you cut the foam down to size? Or do you pack it in to get it down to size?

Ray

[RayK]

I've been thinking abou this mod. Maybe using thin metal compression springs in each foam roll would be the way to go instead of using either metal screen or plastic spiral notebook coil.
I may go to the hardware store tomorrow to see what they have that might be the right diameter (5/16"?) and the right length (or cuttable to the right length).

Ray

[RayK]

Well, I made up the melamine/metal screen tootsie rolls and inserted into all four baffles.
I won't be able to try it out until next Saturday.

I'm curious how you can be sure a pellet won't nick the screen on its way out.
Seems like that would be bad if it happened.

I rolled my screen around 5/16" rod, then wrapped with .2" thick melamine.
I angled each edge so they would meet nicely at the joint when wrapped.
Then I stuffed that into each baffel.
It looks just like the sample pictures posted above.

Ray

[RayK]

Well, I got the Mr Clean Magic Eraser (melamine foam) in my baffels, but I used compression springs to ensure the foam does not creep into the pellet path.
I first tried the metalic screen, but decided it just didn't look secure enough to risk damage to my new favorite gun.
The compression springs hold the pellet path clear and will not fray as the screen has been known to do.
I'll let you know how it works.

Ray

[diarmadhim]

Tried this yesterday. Used fiberglass screen, the metal "spring" from a couple shirt pocket size notepads and tried the WalMart generic brand.
Didn't notice too much difference, but the generic version texture is much different than that of the Mr Clean brand. MUCH less dense material.

So, for cleaning or otherwise get the Mr Clean brand. It'll cost a few cents more, but more than worth it.

[sirpellet]

[color=#000000] [/color] Here is a thought worth considering for anyone out there earnestly attempting to apply every effective method possible without damaging their Mrifle to significantly eliminate attention from neighbors to the sound of the shot....insert a variation of the same design to be held securely in place with an o-ring into the air chamber...only a slight opening in the center is requisite to permit the air flow,the o-ring is to prevent material from corrupting the air port within the barrels interior by virtue of disengaging and sliding down and fyi...much of the noise is created in this chamber when the trigger is pulled. You will be surprised and when you can add this to the other efforts so far reported in the barrel...the silence can be deafening...the pellet striking the target will be more noticable and that is eliminated by backing the target with a home-made putty-clay version of ballistic jel...which to purchase is way too expensive