My LW 630 barrel blank arrived today

[DR650]

I got my barrel blank today and it was really hard to get. Ran into all sorts of problems. Living in Canada they won't ship to me, gun shops only get orders once or twice a year and those shops are 4000 miles away?
Anyway the blank has a rough end with a slight chamber and the other end is just cut off with a saw.
I pushed a few pellets down the barrel and you can only go from one end, extremely tight the other way. I measured where it starts to get tight and it is about 1 inch from the end on the saw cut end.
Hope this is the choke. I am ready to begin machining and have already cut at least 8 internal O rings in practice, sectioned some of them to check the fit of the O ring, made a new rear shroud mount , new air stripper , figured out all I need, I think
Anyway I am anxious to start, wish it would rain tomorrow to give me an excuse to not work around the house
I will take pictures and post them on my progress. Fitting the barrel to the breech is simple it is the internal O ring that is my first concern.
Anyway hope to goes well

[Doc]

Cool. Cant wait to see the progress.

[FuzzyGrub]

There is a guy on the green forum that has been machining lw blanks with basic tools. I'll be watching your progress, too.

[DR650]

There is a guy on the green forum that has been machining lw blanks with basic tools. I'll be watching your progress, too.

Thanks FuzzyGrub. I have done a number of big bore bikes in the shop doing all the machining myself and feel this is easy. Any special reamers or end mills I need my son provides them, anything.
I am fussy, anal about most things and have 4 dial indicators on the lathe watching everything so it should be easy. Turning is no problem, even to the tenth. It is just making sure everything is straight, no run out and guys here keep introducing new concerns that I end up having to address. Like if my tail stock is true to the chuck?? More time indicating It is the constant checking to make sure everything is true.
I will post pictures as I go. To fit the barrel to the breech is a simple 30 minute job but doing it the way I want, knowing everything is right takes allot longer.
The first thing I have to do is make a teflon mandrel for the bore so I can push it into the bore and indicate off the bore for running true and then turn the OD to the correct size and true to the bore.
It is fun and I am looking forward to it.

[SHOOTINIT]

worst case you'll have a blank for a pistol.

[DR650]

worst case you'll have a blank for a pistol.

You could help allot. You have the knowledge, the experience if you would explain yourself. I am loctiting the shroud on like you suggested. I am turning the barrel to .600 for the shroud and .500 for the breech.

The 0 ring groove takes about 1/4 inch max so if I screw it up first cut I can just face it off and try again, and again

I have about 4 inches to play with before I am down to stock length so I should get it right.

You can help Shootinit.

[SHOOTINIT]

there is no explaining myself, your brain would explode if i did.

i never said to loctite the shroud on...shroud mount yes.

it has been explained a couple times already in other threads

you would be better off leaving full metal up to the first breech mount screws...bore out the stock shroud mount to fit

this was a quick drawing for 7/16 barrels

if you are going to knock down the .630 to .600..do it as a taper...

machine the front of the barrel down to 1/2" in front of the choke so you can mount a stripper without blocking the airspace to the rear

[FuzzyGrub]

There is a guy on the green forum that has been machining lw blanks with basic tools. I'll be watching your progress, too.

Thanks FuzzyGrub. I have done a number of big bore bikes in the shop doing all the machining myself and feel this is easy. Any special reamers or end mills I need my son provides them, anything.
I am fussy, anal about most things and have 4 dial indicators on the lathe watching everything so it should be easy. Turning is no problem, even to the tenth. It is just making sure everything is straight, no run out and guys here keep introducing new concerns that I end up having to address. Like if my tail stock is true to the chuck?? More time indicating It is the constant checking to make sure everything is true.
I will post pictures as I go. To fit the barrel to the breech is a simple 30 minute job but doing it the way I want, knowing everything is right takes allot longer.
The first thing I have to do is make a teflon mandrel for the bore so I can push it into the bore and indicate off the bore for running true and then turn the OD to the correct size and true to the bore.
It is fun and I am looking forward to it.

I'd say you are way past the basic tools he uses. I think I need to cross the border with some metal tent stakes that need very specific machining.

[DR650]

Thank you Shootinit. In another post I showed the shroud mount I machined from 1 inch bar stock
I bored it .600
The barrel is .633 so it will be turned down to .600 in front of the breech and green, 609 loctite will be used to secure the mount on permanently. It will butt up to a shoulder to keep it from being forced forward in future
At the very edge of the rear of the shroud mount the step for the breech will be cut to .500. I want the shroud mount to rest tightly against the breech and the breech will be a very good fit with the last .060 turned to 7/16 for the magazine.
I will then mount the breech which was first reamed to .500 before the turning of the barrel and using transfer punches mark the 2 set screw locations. These spots will then have a slight dimple drilled into the barrel giving the set screws a place to bit into but no chance to slip back or forward as stock.
I want everything pushed tightly against each other.
I have a 7 mm .280 end mill to put a flat on the barrel and at the same time drill the port to a conservative .154
I know the dept of the transfer sleeve and once I am done putting the new flat on the barrel I can measure that and come up with a measurement for the sleeve
I make the sleeves for a good fit in the breech and in the air tube at a custom length from teflon for it's slight give and sealing.
The air stripper is already made with a .500 inside bore
The first 1/2 or so will be turned to a nice .500 press fit for the air stripper and it has a nice fit inside the shroud .780 I believe and a good fitting O ring.
All this is prepared but I feel a 24 inch barrel flying around on the lathe needs support at the back side to prevent bending so tomorrow I have to first turn a support to hold the barrel and fit nicely in the back of the lathe. That and a mandaril to fit the bore for setting up with the dial gages for 0 run out of the bore, not the outside of the barrel

I might not be explaining this right but in my head I have a plan and a means to carry it out
I will ream the chamber and have the #2 reamer. I will using a dial indicator make sure the tail stock is parallel to the bore, I know how to check that so if I am happy I can just ream the chamber and I know how deep to go/.
Just past the barrel port so the pellet enters the rifling as soon as it crosses the port.

Think I got that right and thank you for your advice

[DR650]

[quote="FuzzyGrub"'

I'd say you are way past the basic tools he uses. I think I need to cross the border with some metal tent stakes that need very specific machining.

I have build some very sofisticated ?? race cars in the shop with many many custom one off parts in this shop. This is actually easy in terms of cost and difficulty.
1000 hp motors such as this one were built in my shop by me .