WAR Valve capabilities questions for Oldpro

[Shorty]

Oldpro,

Can you post some more information about your new WAR valve. I have read a few posts about the valve but would like to know more before purchasing. Some of the things that I am interested in is:

Does the valve still utilize a velocity adjustment screw ?
( in reference to a 22 synrod) When the valve is installed, can the gun be tuned from a 20 fpe tune all the way up to and greater than 60fpe without removing the valve and changing something other than HT,HS,and VAC?
What are the improvements when just installing the valve without changing hammer spring and opening up the TP and breech?
What would be the improvements without opening up the breech and just using a larger TP?
Does the new valve come with o rings?
Is the valve a complete component meaning no assembly when you receive it and it is ready to drop in?
Can the average Joe install the valve?
Can the average Joe drill out the breech with a cordless drill and bit without damaging the barrel? Do you have any tips for this?
Does the valve use a spring and if not, is it challenging to re-fill from empty using a hand pump?

I cant think of anything else.

[jruther2]

I'll answer what questions I can in bold below

Oldpro,

Can you post some more information about your new WAR valve. I have read a few posts about the valve but would like to know more before purchasing. Some of the things that I am interested in is:

Does the valve still utilize a velocity adjustment screw ?

There is no velocity adjustment screw

( in reference to a 22 synrod) When the valve is installed, can the gun be tuned from a 20 fpe tune all the way up to and greater than 60fpe without removing the valve and changing something other than HT,HS,and VAC?

I don't own a .22 so I can't answer this question.

What are the improvements when just installing the valve without changing hammer spring and opening up the TP and breech?

Travis told me that the no bounce hammer needs at least a 12# spring to work properly. However, I have had no problems using the stock spring in my .25...YMMV.

The WAR valve comes with a TP that matches the valves exhaust port so you don't have to modify one yourself.

My barrel port is opened up to .1875" so I can provide no info on performance of stock porting

What would be the improvements without opening up the breech and just using a larger TP?

See comments above.

Does the new valve come with o rings?

Yes, there was a new o-ring on the valve when I received mine. O rings are not necessary with the TP that is provided

Is the valve a complete component meaning no assembly when you receive it and it is ready to drop in?

No assembly is required

Can the average Joe install the valve?

This is a subjective question. Installing this valve is exactly the same as installing the stock valve.

Can the average Joe drill out the breech with a cordless drill and bit without damaging the barrel? Do you have any tips for this?

The first time I drilled out a barrel port I was very nervous. Having read that the barrel material is fairly soft metal I decided to try turning a drill bit by hand to test the hardness. I ended up opening up my first barrel port to .156" by turning a drill bit by hand after I had chucked it into one of these Having said that, I was a bit concerned about opening up to .1875" so I did that on the mill beause I have access to one but it probably wasn't necessary.

Does the valve use a spring and if not, is it challenging to re-fill from empty using a hand pump?

The valve uses a spring.

The preload on the valve spring can be adjusted in a manner that is similar to adjusting the hammer spring. Of course, this adjustment can only be made while the valve is out of the air tube and in your hand.

Travis did caution me that if too much tension is added to the preload on the valve spring then the valve travel will be limited and you risk breaking the poppet.

There is a break in period for the oring on the valve seat buffer so you will probably have a slight leak at the valve for the first few fills. (Travis includes this information on a sheet that comes with the valve.) So filling with a pump should be no different with this valve. However, my pump is in need of repairs at this time so I haven't been pumping and I can't say for sure.

I cant think of anything else.

Hope that helps.

[oldpro]

What he said! And yes no other mods needed to get to 60FPE

[Marmot_Militia]

Shorty, et al,

I have a .22 Synrod and did some testing (but Travis is still the go-to guy)

The answers given by jruther2 are correct.

One thing I want to clarify is there is NO breech modification necessary. The only modification, if you choose to do so, is to enlarge the transfer port on the barrel itself. We custom form transfer ports from poly-vinyl tubing to .190" ID. You will not use the stock transfer port or transfer port seals if you want the high-power the valve can provide. The valve can be used with the factory transfer port and seals.

What are the improvements when just installing the valve without changing hammer spring and opening up the TP and breech?

Travis told me that the no bounce hammer needs at least a 12# spring to work properly. However, I have had no problems using the stock spring in my .25...YMMV.


The valve will indeed work with the factory hammer spring, and may be the best way to get super light tunes (20ftlb), but a heavier hammer spring will be required to get 60ftlbs.

FWIW, I've shot my .22 synrod at 550fps with the NBH and WAR H.E. Valve.


We did extensive testing on the need for a velocity screw and determined the screw to be an inadvisable way to limit power. Basically: don't take air out of the reservoir that you don't intend to use. Restricting the air AFTER you've taken it from the reservoir and put it through the valve is a complete waste of air.

Regards,
Jim

[Shorty]

Thanks for all the information and taking the time to write.

Looks like I will be ordering a valve very soon.

[oldpro]

Jim brought up a good point most don't , the valve metering screw only slows the air flow so when the valve opens then closes the metering screw slows that air but doesn't keep that air from being sent out of the barrel once the valve closes its all coming out no matter what so restricting it after the poppet just wastes air and energy. The better choice is to control the poppet better and not waste air and energy.

[bstaley]

Couldn't agree more. It's like running your engine at WOT and controlling your speed with the brakes!