Air leak post valve install:(

[Nickdizonc]

I discovered a leak in my Synrod a day after installing a new valve and The leaks are located at the gauge port and the filling assembly nipple. The gauge I can fix easy with some JB weld but the fill nipple I'm not so sure about. is this as simple as swapping out all the orings in the gun or is there another fix? the filling assembly itself looks good and I cleaned all the gunk it had all over it when I changed out the valve. thanks in advance for the help

[caniborrowsomeammo]

JB Weld?

[SHOOTINIT]

NEW ORINGS AND TEFLON TAPE....NO JB

[Nickdizonc]

I was just going to use the JB weld to plug the gauge face. I banged it against something a while back in the woods and the gauge popped off so I removed the plastic window of the gauge. Was just going to fill that wih JB since t is rated for 3960PSI. I'll eventually get a new gauge but for now I'm just going to plug it up. as far as the orings, do I change our all the orings throughout the entire gun or just the ones that appear to be damaged upon inspection? also, how do you guys slide the valve assembly in without marring the orings? I saturated all the parts I installed with silicone grease to ensure they would snag on any of the cutouts and they still did. took me 3 tries to finally get the darn valve in and seated properly, destroying a set of valve orings every time. :/

[RayK]

If the o-rings are not nearly new, I replace them with new ones. The key ones are on the valve, the gauge block and on the fill assembly. They are all 118 o-rings. 70 duro buna works well.

Ray

[AlanMcD]

Always feed the valve in from the fill port end. The only hole to worry about that way is the gauge port. As the oring becomes visible in the hole, it begins to extrude out into the hole from the constraining pressure the rest of the way around the tube - you need to push it back in there as you move it into position. I just use my thumb to get most of it in there, but I typically use a wide flat blade of a screw driver to push it down the last little bit as I push it the rest of thway into position. Use plenty of silicone greese as you do it. If you think the o-ring got nicked as you do this, pull it out ans start over.

The first time I did this, I bought the exact number of o-rings to do the job (4). During that process I learned that 0-rings are expendable, and ended up buying a bulk pack of them for not much more money. If you are a tinkerer, you will be pulling things apart several times per year. Your only constraint is that you hand pump - and once you have a tank and compressor, you won't think twice about it as you have all the compressed air you need . . . .

Leaks happen. Just fix them when they do occur.

[PB_Matrix]

Slightly beveling and then polishing the forward leading edges of the holes in the air tube aid in getting the valve O-rings pushed in with out damage from the back of the rifle. Dremel tools rule! This is also a common problem with some paintball markers.

[Nickdizonc]

Swapped outall rings and the leaks are gone. I functioned tested the gun and ran some 28.4 grain eun jin's through them and was able to get 7 shots @ 890fps. MY jaw dropped. I finally hit 50fpe. Its a GREAT day.