Marauder FT stocks

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Marauder FT stocks

Postby MasterWolf on Tue Oct 12, 2010 10:58 pm

anyone know where to get the Crosman FT stocks for the marauder

saw them in use on the a-team blog and really want one
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Re: Marauder FT stocks

Postby Supercharged86 on Wed Oct 13, 2010 3:22 pm

Sorry MasterWolf, The custom stock Ray and Hans Apelles are using for FT competition was custom made for them by Crosman, I'm almost certain it's not available to the general public :cry: . Steve
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Re: Marauder FT stocks

Postby MasterWolf on Thu Oct 14, 2010 2:22 am

Supercharged86 wrote:Sorry MasterWolf, The custom stock Ray and Hans Apelles are using for FT competition was custom made for them by Crosman, I'm almost certain it's not available to the general public :cry: . Steve



Dayum - that is really disappointing - the Mrod wold make a fine FT gun- IF you could get a decent adjustable stock for it
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Re: Marauder FT stocks

Postby bob7346 on Thu Oct 14, 2010 6:15 am

Masterwolf:

If you put on an adjustable butt plate (easy to do), and an adjustable cheek riser (a real pain in the ass) the stock is livable and fairly usable for FT. Both mods are about $60 total, the bp takes about 5 minutes and the cr about 2 hours.

Bob
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Re: Marauder FT stocks

Postby Supercharged86 on Thu Oct 14, 2010 7:56 am

MW, I agree with Bob. If you're needing some adjustablility, the butt plate and comb riser definately helps. Did the Graco comb riser on mine, as Bob said, a real pain in the ass (especially if you've never done one, but really worth the effort). In case you didn't see it elsewhere.... Steve

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Re: Marauder FT stocks

Postby mbrave on Thu Oct 28, 2010 4:08 pm

Steve,
The mod on your gun looks very well done. Can you list the parts you ordered from Graco?

Also how did you cut the stock? The lines are very straight and given the shape of the stock I was wondering what kind of jig you used. I am assuming you did the cutting on a bandsaw with a very thin blade. Please share your expertise on this process.

Thanks,
Mark
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Re: Marauder FT stocks

Postby Supercharged86 on Thu Oct 28, 2010 8:40 pm

Hey Mark, I'll try to explain the process as best I can. Depending on the size of your scope/ring height and your facial features you may or may not need as drastic comb cut as I have. So with the rifle firmly mounted to your check bone (as I'm sure your probably aware of), have a friend roughly measure the distance from your eye to the center of the scope eye piece. For me this was over 1 1/2" as you can see by the total height.

I used a Graco model 425 kit, however, because I needed a longer post length than what was available online, I called them directly to order a higher one. They can do up to a 2" post which is what I ordered. So depending on how high you need to raise the comb will basicly determine the depth of your cut, plus some extra clearance for the top where it tapers in. Mark, because I figured I would probably never lower the comb all the way back down fully (regardless of scope size), I didn't quite measure down the full 2+ inches for the comb cut (not to mention I don't think it would of looked as good, too deep).

Oh yeah, I almost forgot to mention, the base plate is 1" wide so you'll need to cut down at least enough where the stock is a good 1 1/4" or so wide. This way there's enough clearance on either side of the plate.

I then took some wide masking tape and placed two strips across the side and then using a pencil sketched the three sided shape. The hardest part was figuring out how to keep the stock square and level to the band saw table while cutting. I ended up making a two-piece jig, one that screwed onto the butt end and the other laid under the heel. I removed the butt pad and fastened a square piece of wood stock that was the exact width of the stock end. With the block of wood fastened to the butt end, the stock will now sit square to the band saw table. I then taped a wood block about 1/4" to 5/16" thick under the heel to keep the stock as level as possible (because of the overall shape and taper to the stock, you'll just have to eye ball the thickness needed to achieve that).

The only scroll blade I could find for my 80" band saw was a Sears/Craftsman 1/8" 15TPI. Because of the two turns you need to make you don't want anything too wide but unfortuately the thinner it is the less it goes straight, I guess it's a trade off. That's why they call them scroll blades. Now it's just a matter of following the tracing. If your saw is adjusted right and you keep good pressure on the blade it won't "walk" as much and keep fairly straight.

The base plate needs to be countersunk into the stock, pretty self explainatory. I chose to screw it down instead of epoxy it as the instructions wanted, just in case you want to remove it, your choice. Lastly, you need to drill out the comb piece for the post guides and set screws. This is best done on a drill press if possible. I used Minwax to match the color as best as possible. And that's it. Overall I think it came out fairly well for my first time. However, now I know why Graco wanted $165 to do the job. Good luck. Steve
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Re: Marauder FT stocks

Postby mbrave on Mon Nov 01, 2010 7:40 pm

Steve,
Thanks for taking the time to spell that out for me. The jig you described makes a lot of sense and remembering the depth of the cut based on the plate's width seems so obvious but I am sure more than one person would make that cut only to realize they should have gone deeper. This is one piece of wood I wouldn't want to become kindling...
Regards,
Mark
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About Love: -
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Re: Marauder FT stocks

Postby bob7346 on Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:03 am

Hey Guys:

After making my mods to the original stock, so I could shoot FT. The stock just reached its limits. I finally broke down and scored a Mike Abernathy DIY thumb hole stock a couple of weeks ago.

Just shooting the gun with the stock before anything was done to it felt great, and my groups became smaller, and flyers were only a quarter of an inch at 25 meters. It really surprised me how much differance it could make.

After shooting about 50 rounds, I figured out exactly how I wanted the stock to be finished and fitted. Luckily for me, my best friend is also a FT guy that shoots a P70, and is one of the best wood workers in the business, and agreed to finish my stock for me.

He installed a cheek riser, adjustable but pad, reshaped the stock a small amount, and is in the process of appling the final finish today. The gun is turning out absolutely gorgeous, the custom mods have all worked out perfect for me.

The gun would rival any custom Euro gun made in looks and feel. Don't get me wrong, it is a lot of work, but can be done with a great outcome.

I think Mike Abernathy may have some more stocks available soon, custom mods ran about $100, finish and paint is what you would like to spend, time was about 25 hours.

Weather permiting it should be finished this weekend and I'll post up some pictures. Bob
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