Which pistol to build??

[caboose212]

That is a great looking pistol!!!

I only thought of a 14" barrel because I thought the extra 4" would help me get the velocity I need. I didn't think a 10.1" barrel would do it in .25. Thoughts on that? Would it be possible to get 20+ fpe out of a 10.1" barrel? 2-3 full power shots is perfectly alright too. It is for dispatching 'coons at extreme close ranges.

The pistol would have the same front sight base/sight that the 1701P does, so no worries there. I'll not be using a scope for this one.

The .25 bolt will have to be custom made, but I'm sure I can find someone to make me one...

Holster: I'm going to make a kydex holster- easy to do, and cheap. Plus it conforms to whatever shape I need...

The reason for the two different routes is because the two airguns have different roles... *Sigh* I may have to build both! The bullpup is for pests around the house, friend's houses, and traveling. I could use a smaller bottle (like an omega or something similar) because of high shot count and small reservoir. Overall, a very packable little gun. It's very quiet, and can dispatch most pests, and of course, target practice. The "Thumper", honestly, is for dispatch at close range, where a .22 LR would be too loud. I think a .25 pistol at 20+ fpe would still be more quiet than a .22 LR. Esspecially since it's subsonic.

[FuzzyGrub]

For 20 fpe there is no need to go the expense of a 25 cal. Plenty of heavy 22 pellets and options.

If your target was 30fpe or more, worth doing 25 cal. The valve and air volume will quickly be the limitations, though. If you keep your planned barrel length and a 1720/prod airtube, I'd expect that you can get your minimum of 2-3 shots at or near 30fpe, maybe more. At a minimum, you will need to open up the valve exhaust, and TP, and heavy hammer spring. Maybe even adding some weight to hammer.

It will be loud with no LDC. The pistol posted is my loudest airgun by far. And it does have about an inch to vent to the shroud. I don't have a pistol permit (NY) so can't compare to a pistol 22LR. A rifle 22LR subsonic, shot into the ground at close distance may not be louder than an inefficient 30fpe 25 cal airgun with no shroud or LDC. I can't say for sure because it has been a while since I have shot any 22LR.

I went with a very large Uncle Mikes holster. I talked to a guy at the gun shop that makes those type (kydex) of holsters. I believe they have to be heated up to form them and while the temp wasn't that high, I figured I would remove valve an orings, etc. I'll be interested in how you make out.

[caboose212]

Hmmm... You know what, I think you guys are right- I'm just not going to get the FPE out of such a small reservoir. I would prefer 30 fpe, but it's just impractical, and I'm not about to drive myself crazy trying to get that kind of power out of such a small pistol. I'll just stick w/the bullpup idea, but change the caliber to .22 to get better efficiency as suggested. For those that have experience w/the 17xx PCP's- it looks to me like the .22 pellets will work w/the .177 pellet tray, but I'd like to be sure. What do you guys think? Will the pellet tray be fine, or will it need to be modified?

I already have the 17xx breech, hence wanting to use it. I also don't need a mag-fed bullpup. I'm completely fine w/a single shot. Is the 17xx's oring in the barrel like the prod, or is it on the bolt?

As far as the Kydex- you cut the pattern as needed, to make the holster. You heat the kydex in a small oven to get it flexible, to be able to work with it. You quickly form it, and put it in a press. After about 10 minutes or so, you pull it out of the press, and there you have it... There's more steps than that- but that's those are the basics... Video, not me:

[FuzzyGrub]

The 1701/1720T breech has a bolt with o-ring and none in the barrel. Prod has the o-ring in the barrel and none on the bolt. The 1701/1720T breech has a wider opening and angled edges for single pellet loading. The Prod is slightly narrower with straight sides for the mag.

The bad news is, the bolts are not interchangeable between the breeches. The cocking lug is in a different location. So to use a Prod or Mrod barrel, will still require a custom bolt. If you have the LW 1701 or 1720T barrel, might as well stay with it, IMO.

Thx for the video. I had the misconception the gun went in the 250 degree toaster oven.

[caboose212]

No worries on the vid! It was fun looking for it!

I don't have a 17xx barrel... Hmmm, this is going to take a bit of thinking... I'll figure it out. I always manage to get myself into a harder project than is needed, don't I?

[RayK]

I always manage to get myself into a harder project than is needed, don't I?

USMC: Uncomplicated $h*t Made Complicated

Yes, but at least you know it going in.

As long as you finish your projects, they are not too ambitious. The problems start when folks start projects, never really get them finished, but start on new ones.....

Ray

[FuzzyGrub]

I'd wouldn't be afraid to go with the longer 1720T barrel (12"). They are a bit pricey compared to regular crosman barrels, but still much less than getting one machined. I think around $60-70. The accuracy can be addicting and can do simple mods to get 15fpe for 20 shots. It is a great small pest yard gun and good at paperwork. Head shots on tree rats are very effective. I recommend it over the prod in many cases. The only detractor is the single shot, no mag. I have two of them in the arsenal now. The M4 style which became my favorite for yard work last year and more recently, a refurb that will replace a break barrel for red tree rat duty at camp.

You have probably seen them before: