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[NeuRon]

On the spur of the moment Friday night, I decided to try to mount my scope-cam to my .25 Mrod, for some Saturday morning shooting. Well, anyone who has done this is probably already laughing to themselves. There is a good deal of work trying to get all of the variables figured out... ...which I failed to do!

I have been able to get the camera into position with what seems to be the proper eye-relief, but then everything turns into a giant batch of cluster-fuuuuudge as I try to gain a bigger picture and then clarity. I could really use a step-by-step tutorial to help figure this out, as I think I'm close and then lose it.

I'm working with the following:

Camera: Samsung TL350 (5X zoom)
Scope: 4-16x40AO Hawke (on the .25, will use something else for the .22, which will be the dedicated rig, currently w/ a Centerpoint 3-9x40AO).
Mount: Orion SteadyPix Deluxe (same as the Seben, just rebranded).

Any detailed suggestions on setting this up would be greatly appreciated! It got to the point that I was starting to consider NOT capturing the video through the scope and just attaching it in an otherwise convenient way.

[RatRacer]

Is it auto focusing on the reticle instead of the field of view? I'm not experienced at this, but I would try to extend the zoom fully, and try to lock the infinity focus. Also, maybe stay away from auto mode, as it might switching to macro. That's all I got.

or

email Ted

[AirRifleHunter]

Exactly what I was thinking RatRacer!

Just send a message to Ted from Ted's Holdover. He is a super nice guy and I'm sure he'd be more than willing to give you some advice.

[NeuRon]

I just thought Ted might be a little busy for a tutorial. Maybe it would be a nice idea for a video. Speaking of which, I can't wait to see his work with his new .25 Mrod.

My main problem seems to be the sight-picture, in that I can get a clear image with the scope's view shown as a smaller circle. As I try to move things around to increase the size of the scope-view in the frame, the difficulties begin, with the reticle getting fuzzy and any balance between the two getting very hard to ahcieve. I'll make sure the auto-focus is off, but that might only account for a small part of the issues.

Also, I'm not sure if you can set the camera up and then use the scope's zoom, as you would normally do, or if you are then limited to zooming with the camera. If it's the latter, that seems to be problematic, as the scope-view then changes when you effectivley are moving the lens out of the proper eye-relief area. It would seem that the camera's position and zoom must remain constant, and then any zoom would need to be done with the scope. Essentially, the camera should just be replacing your eye.

I know outcrydrummer overcame his struggles with this, so I have hope that he can offer some detailed suggestions before I ask Ted for help. I'm sure he has people asking frequently.

[afreemanb]

Here is the key I learned for making them clear. I don't always succeed, but it is no minor task to find the shot, get the camera ready, focus the scope, then take the shot. I give up a lot of potential prey while getting the camera rolling.

Some of this depends on the type camera you have. For mine, I turned off all focus assist (the light) and set it for tight center focus.
Then I lined up the camera so that the reticle is in the center of the focusing box.
Set the camera to MACRO so it will try to focus close. It almost always focuses on the reticle, which is what I want.
1st focus the AO to the target. I don't have a rangefinder, so I am using judgement to get it close, then doing some finer focusing through the camera. If you have the orion / DKA scope cam mount, you can flip it out of the way easily to directly focus on the target through the scope.
Now the reticle and the target should be in focus.
Assuming the target hasn't scampered or flown off by now, hit record & take your shot.

Hope this helps.

Here are some of my vids. I am getting better with time. You can tell when I really didn't have any idea what I was doing. In some, before I had a scope mount, I was holding the gun left handed (I am right handed), and holding the camera in place right handed, trying to keep the distance from the scope and alignment right, while aiming at the prey left handed. Suffice to say it is a miracle I got anything.

If you have any questions, let me know. I don't know as much as Ted obviously, but he helped me with my setup (as did Rick, Outdooradventures, and several other guys), but I will help with what I can.

Freeman

Warning. Some of these vids include some graphic kill shots. Don't watch if you don't want to see headshots up close and personal.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDKch2cOng4&hd=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijSWhuLzDdo&hd=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gn6f_O-rGA4&hd=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2DNw_9YlUM&hd=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1p2LGht1LA&hd=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLeYFSFLiYE&hd=1

[NeuRon]

Exactly the sort of info I was looking for. Thanks! Good videos and nice tree trimming. ;I'll wait until my .22 is done and set my rig on it. I'd need higher rings to mount it to my .25

[icebug]

Just a hint, in order to stop the reticule running around the screen, even though the cam is fixed to the scope, go to the camera setup and switch off the anti-shake function.

[NeuRon]

After finally getting the .22 going again, I got around to trying this out a little more. I did get a good picture, for the most part, on this temporary scope. The rings are so low that I can barely dip my chin far enough to get a good sight-picture. This makes it difficult to get the camera into the same position as my eye, but I did get the fundamentals down, I think. The new scope will be here within days and then I'll get the proper-height rings. This will allow my final set-up for a while. BTW, the little Samsung TL350 only has a 5X zoom, so mounting beside the scope (instead of through) won't work, as you just don't get a close view. 12x on the scope doesn't offer enough zoom at 25 yards, IMO. Yet, the scope that's due to arrive is a 3-12x50.

And while the viewscreen is big for the class of vid/cam, it still makes it tough to see a small target at 25 yards with the scope on 12x.

I'm using a laptop to edit (MacBookPro 13" i7/750). The basic iMovie software that's loaded on it made things pretty easy, but I really need to take the tutorial so I'm not just tripping my way along. Also, the slow-motion options are in a drop-down menu with 50%, 25% & 10%. The 10% is closest to what we're used to seeing in hunting vids, but I think it needs to go slower still in order to see a pellet. After the gun/camera jumps from the shot, the hole pretty much just seems to appear at 25 yards.

My first test video was at the range yesterday, which was a very busy day out there. The only bay open faced into the sun. I put on a cap and dealt with it while pellet-testing, but the camera and scope were fighting glare. My hope is that's why I couldn't see the pellet; with all of the glare spots and flares all over the lenses. I might also need to look into other software options, even though iMovie should be able to do most eveything that I want. The camera shoots 1080 digital video, so the resolution is there to slow it down more.

I'll spare you the test video, as it's just a short string of slow-mo shots at the target... ...with sun glares and flares. I hope to be playing Candid Camera with the squirrels soon. 'SMILE!'

[NeuRon]

No squirrels yet, but I did get my first subject for a test video. Seems to be working fine.


You can go about your business. Move along.

[NeuRon]

Testing the linkage. Can't figure out how to get it to play directly on the page. Also, I'll upload to youtube later. Let me know if you can't gain access or something when you click below. It will take you to my photobucket gallery. 24 seconds long. First squirrel on cam. Go fullscreen and use some audio. I had to play around a little for my first one.

http://s1120.photobucket.com/albums/l498/NeuRonGallery/?action=view¤t=1080p-2.mp4